Are you still satisfied with your Horia clone Chinese jeweling tool? Worth the money? Would you recommend it? Yes, it is a rather cumbersome method, but I'm beginning to develop a good feel for the correct shake, so eventually I'll be able to determine if any end shake adjustments will be necessary even before taking the movement apart (unless being excessively dirty or having excessively dried oils). That is, before starting the assembly of the watch, I mount one train wheel (on the otherwise bare main plate) and the train wheel bridge, test the shake (I actually use my stereo microscope to assess the shake visually as well), adjust the shake if necessary, repeat the testing and adjusting until I'm satisfied, and then I move on to the next train wheel, and so on. Unfortunately, this little gauge helper is about two times the cost of your Chinese Horia clone tool, but in my opinion extremely convenient, and perhaps even necessary.įor your second question, the way I do it is one wheel at the time. To use it, find the jewel in the gauge having a hole where the pivot of the wheel can be tilted about 5 degrees, and there's your inside diameter. It looks like this and can often be found on eBay. As i can't take a measurement, is the only way to achieve the correct end shake placing the movement back together and keep taking it apart until the end shake feels right?įor your first question, the best method IMO would be to use a "Seitz jewel gauge tool".
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